HEMP FABRIC MAKING A COMEBACK

Designer Armani Is Promoting Hemp Clothing And Cultivation

During discussion about the recent debate over the decriminalization or
legalization of marijuana, I was reminded of a clothing fibre that had
fallen out of favour but has recently been making a comeback -- hemp.

In the years before the early 20th century, fabric from hemp was far more
popular than cotton.

For a number of reasons, including the use of some forms of hemp as a drug,
growing hemp was prohibited in Canada 1938 and discouraged or forbidden in
much of the rest of the world.

The psychoactive substance in marijuana, THC, is virtually nonexistent in
hemp grown for fibre.

Hemp is a fibre that has a finish similar to flax or linen and ramie. It is
very quick-growing and has exceptionally long fibres. Cotton fibres are
about 20 millimeters long, while the fibres of the hemp plant can reach
several meters in length. As well as their much greater length, hemp fibres
are stronger, more absorbent, and far more environmentally friendly than
cotton.

While much of the fabric I've seen has a harsh hand (or feel), I'm told
that some spinners are producing fibre that rivals silk in its soft hand
and sheen.

Probably due to the history of the connection to marijuana, clothing
products of hemp have found most of their initial popularity with younger
clients and aging hippies.

My first wardrobe item made from hemp fibre was a pair of jeans. (As a
point of interest, the original Levi's jeans were made of hemp.)

I found my jeans comfortable, easy-care and exceptionally durable.

Even though the counterculture was the first proponent of this durable
fibre, fashion genius Giorgio Armani has been experimenting with hemp
textiles and recently outfitted actor Woody Harrelson in a tuxedo made from
hemp fabric.

Not content to leave his cannabis experiment to finished fashions, the
Italian style guru has had his company participate in a consortium of
Italian farmers and seed producers to restart Italian hemp cultivation near
Ferrara in Italy.

Until now, Giorgio Armani had imported the hemp he uses in his collection
from France.

While the initial planting is 200 hectares (494 acres), Armani's consortium
is also building a factory to process hemp with a capacity to process hemp
produced from 1,000 hectares (2470 acres).

Canada has allowed hemp grown from research purposes since 1961, and in
1998, for the first time in 60 years, commercial production of industrial
hemp was permitted.

Despite the marvels of the plant, including its ability to thrive with
minimal or no pesticides, technology has not kept up, and growing and
harvesting hemp remains labour-intensive.

Whether or not the smokable variety of cannabis will or should become more
available is still open to debate; the short-term growth of hemp fabrics in
specialty high-end clothing seems to be probable, particularly with the
support of Armani.

The widespread use of this fibre in men's clothing will take many years,
and based on current technology it is unlikely to ever be more than a small
part of the fashion industry.

Marvin Caplan is a Hamilton councillor who spent nearly four decades in the
clothing business. You can contact him at mcaplan@netaccess.on.ca