SUDDENLY, AMERICA HAS A BRASH NEIGHBOR UP NORTH

Moves toward decriminalizing marijuana and allowing gay marriage
contrast with US ethos.

Canada has long been the United States' virtually invisible neighbor
to the north. But suddenly it is coming out of its shell - and
sharpening an identity that increasingly looks like a slice of Europe
on America's back porch.

It's moving to become the third nation on the planet to legalize gay
marriage. It's primed to decriminalize possession of small amounts of
marijuana. And it vocally opposed the US war on Iraq.

These moves reflect a growing cultural assertiveness - especially on
the importance of tolerance and multiculturalism, which are enshrined
in Canada's version of the Bill of Rights. The shift is increasingly
putting the US and Canada - the world's biggest trading partners - on
a cultural collision course.

"We look at you Americans and see the [National Rifle Association], rigged
elections, Christian fundamentalists, and pre-emptive wars," says Michael
Adams, author of the best-selling "Fire and Ice: The United States, Canada
and the Myth of Converging Values." By contrast, Canada is a place that
prizes "peace, order, and good government." It's "a social welfare state
where we raise taxes to pay for transit, housing, and more," he says.

Canada's newfound assertiveness stems, in part, from a growing
confidence in the Charter of Rights and Freedoms, adopted in 1982.
It's akin to the US Bill of Rights. But it guarantees, for instance,
equality for women, aboriginal groups, and minority-language groups.

It's led to Canada even having a cabinet position for multiculturalism.

And it's one reason for Canada's wide-open immigration policy. Fully
18 percent of Canadians are foreign born, compared with about 10
percent of Americans. In Toronto, 40 percent of residents are foreign
born.

Recently Canadian courts have also interpreted the charter to
guarantee rights for gays, including the right to marry.

All in all, "It's not just that Canadians are comfortable with
diversity," it's something they are increasingly proud of, says Andrew
Parkin, codirector of the Center for Research and Information on
Canada in Ottawa. "They're now saying this is what makes them proud to
be Canadian."

While the two nations also have their commonalities, Canadians often
have defined themselves as "not American." Now more and more they're
stressing their unique societal openness along with other intrinsic
values. The United Nations, for instance, has frequently declared
Canada home of the best quality of life in the world.

This comes at a time when many parts of the US have retained - or even
expanded - a conservative tilt, as embodied in the administration of
President Bush. That only adds to Canadians' determination to be
different from the US - and increasingly to make the difference known.
"There's always been some satisfaction in tweaking the eagle's beak,"
says David Biette, director of the Canada Institute at the Woodrow
Wilson Center in Washington.

The difference now is that Americans may be paying a bit more
attention. A Canadian court last week ruled that gay marriage should
be legal. And the government is expected to confirm the policy in
coming months. The moves have already sparked praise from liberals and
scorn from conservatives in the US. Some American gay couples are
already trekking across the border to get married. Some even figure
the Canadian side of Niagara Falls may get a boost as a honeymoon hot
spot for gays.

Prime Minister Jean Chretien's administration introduced legislation
to decriminalize penalties for possession of small amounts of
marijuana - making it akin to getting a traffic ticket. The bill would
increase penalties for growing and trafficking large quantities of
pot.

US officials have reacted with grave concern to the plan, saying more
US-bound trucks would have to be searched for drugs. This would
potentially slow the $1 billion daily US-Canada trade.

American officials have also taken note of Canada's stance on the Iraq
war. It was hardly as outspoken as France or Germany. But it was
highly critical.

Canada, which provides free health care to all citizens, has also
become a central topic in US debates over prescription-drug prices. In
all, for America's social liberals, Canada is becoming a kind of
Nirvana Up North. It's home to tough gun-control laws (every gun in
the country must be registered), no federal restrictions on abortion,
no death penalty, and strict campaign-spending laws.

Among US conservatives, Canada is increasingly seen as a European-like
society that's promoting moral relativism - and creating pressure for
the US to follow suit. "The case will be made by the homosexual lobby
that we should do it, too," says Ken Connor, president of the
conservative Family Research Council in Washington, referring to
Canada's move on gay marriage.