POT TOURISM

WHILE CANADA DEBATES decriminalizing marijuana possession and
America's drug czar, John Walters, worries that such a move may lead
to "the crack equivalent of marijuana" - potent bioengineered strains
known as "B.C. bud" - finding its way south, the city of Vancouver has
quietly become a travel destination for American "pot tourists" taking
a break from prohibition.

On a recent Tuesday afternoon, Jolene and Horst (not their real names)
are celebrating their honeymoon at Blunt Bros., one of two cannabis
cafes on the 300 block of West Hastings Street, a short walk from
Vancouver's toniest shopping district. The young couple from
Washington were overjoyed when they learned that Horst's parents, both
practicing Seventh-Day Adventists, were sending them to Vancouver as a
wedding present. Jolene smiles while Horst hunches over a low table to
roll a joint (the cafes furnish refreshments, but it's strictly BYOM).
Their activity may be illegal, "but here, it's tolerated," Jolene says.

Vancouver, a two-hour drive north of Seattle, has been labeled
"Vansterdam" for its liberal attitude and ease of access to the local
greenery. Observers note an upsurge in alternative tourism ever since
last year when Vancouver was voted the best "pot spot" travel
destination by New York-based High Times magazine, beating out the
perennial winner, Amsterdam. (Executive editor Dan Skye, who travels
to Vancouver several times a year, says B.C. bud is "very good" but
maintains that California's Humboldt County grows the world's finest.)
Annual marijuana harvest festivals here lure large numbers of visitors
- - 80 percent American, according to organizers - who will pay as much
as $500 for a multi-day marijuana buffet. Jim, a rasta-looking staffer
at the B.C. Marijuana Party headquarters ensconced between Blunt Bros.
and the New Amsterdam Cafe, describes patrons flying in from across
the United States, pulling up in limousines, and demanding to know
"Where's the weed?"

Jolene and Horst leave their plate of nachos to join more than a dozen
people in the standing-room-only smoking room in back of the cafe.
More than half of the assembled are American; the rest are split
between locals and other nationalities (ESL students from Japan and
France say they come to practice English in the sociable
atmosphere).

Christine from Dallas drove here with Beth, who wears a Holly Hobby
hat and says she's from "Podunk, Wyoming." They are vacationing
university students. In fact, many of the pot tourists one finds in
Vancouver are university-educated members of the middle-to
upper-middle class who defy the stoner stereotype. Four lawyers from
Manhattan are just leaving. Meanwhile, Christine is discussing
17th-century French philosopher Blaise Pascal with a middle-aged man
who says he's a nurse. Christine is a history major, recently returned
from a year at the University of London. She almost didn't make it
there. Shortly before she was to leave, she and her sister were caught
smoking a joint in her sister's car by Texas police (the smoke
billowing forth when her sister rolled down the window might have
tipped them off). Her sister spent the night in prison and the past
year on parole.

As joints make their way around the room and still more are rolled on
a table, two champion skiers are relaxing after filming ESPN's X-Games
at nearby Whistler Mountain. "We're representing the United States,"
one of them announces through a cloud of smoke. He turns to another
young guy, someone he's just met, who is expounding to all who will
listen on the benefits of marijuana smoking.

"Weed brings people together," the guy observes. "Weed smokers are
probably the friendliest of all people."

"Word up," says the skier, arms crossed. "Word up."

A local is unimpressed. "This place is a tourist trap," he
says.

If You Go

Sip organic coffee or herbal tea in the smoke-friendly,
brick-and-beam New Amsterdam Cafe (301 West Hastings, 604-682-8955,
www.newamsterdamcafe.com). Or head next door to Blunt Bros. (317 West
Hastings, 604-682-5868, www.bluntbros.com). Budget travelers shack up
at the very central Cambie Hostel, a renovated heritage building in
scenic Gastown (300 Cambie, 1-877-395-5335, www.cambiehostels.com;
dorm rooms run $15 a day, a private room $36, including light
breakfast). Bonus: a burger and beer at the very happening on-site
pub the Cambie, Vancouver's oldest drinking establishment, comes in
under $5. Another smart option is the Sandman (180 West Georgia,
604-681-2211) at $60 a night. Air travel is typically hassle free,
but it's probably wise to leave the Bob Marley shirt in the luggage
until after you've passed through customs. Round-trip flights leaving
Friday and returning Sunday are $290 (tax included) with Alaska,
Northwest, United Airlines, and Air Canada. Reserve through
www.vancouver.com or call 1-888-895-2870.