CIUDAD JUAREZ, THE CITY THAT WENT TO HELL IN DRUG WAR

CIUDAD JUAREZ, Mexico - This is known as the most dangerous city in
the world and it feels like it.

Half of Juarez - just across the Rio Grande from El Paso, Texas -
looks like a ghost town; the other resembles a battle zone briefly
gone quiet so that cars can get out. Many assembly plants are silent,
commercial centers are as lifeless as the cotton fields east of town,
restaurants and bars are half-empty, and even the facade of the morgue
is riddled with bullets. Thousands of run-down cars seem to be just
cruising, their drivers having no destination in mind. Street vendors
in the small plaza where the cathedral stands do little more than talk
to each other, and the soldiers riding around with their fingers on
the triggers look more tense than the civilians.

On the morning I arrived here, a woman was found buried in her own
backyard a few blocks from where I am staying; two bodies were also
identified in Anapra, a nearby slum. When I went to dinner, I learned
that four people had been shot earlier outside the same restaurant.
Another shootout had left a couple of victims on the Paseo Triunfo de
la Republica, a major artery. Someone mentioned that a child had been
found hanging from a bridge earlier in the week, just another corpse
adding to the numbing statistic: 2,300 people killed this year. No
wonder a quarter of the population has fled.

It is hard to conceive of Juarez as the powerhouse it once was.
Beginning in the late 1980s, hundreds of assembly plants were
established with North American, Swiss and
Japanese capital. An abundant supply of skilled labor partly trained
by local technological schools led Delphi, Valeo, Visteon and Lear to
set up their main production facilities here. And Juarez's lustful
night life attracted scores of Texans during weekends. It is even
harder to conceive of this corner of Chihuahua state as the legendary
place where Benito Juarez briefly established the nation's capital in
the 19th century and where the Mexican revolution was won.

Few spectacles are more telling about the degradation of life here
than the sight of the migrants expelled from the United States coming
in over the Santa Fe bridge every evening. As soon as they walk in,
dozens of people, including mean-looking thugs and attractive girls,
mob them and try to force them toward the foreign exchange bureaus
nearby, where oftentimes they are kidnapped or cheated into buying
pesos at inflated rates. I accompanied a bunch of them to a guesthouse
run by a Catholic friar where they were to spend the night. I heard
one of them say, "This would never happen in the United States." His
air of resignation made it sounds as if he had said this would never
happen back home - a cruel irony in the mouth of a deportee.

Nobody knows exactly why Juarez went to hell, but many blame the
Mexican government's war against a couple of drug cartels. They say
that the decision to target a few specific groups, particularly La
Familia in Michoacan, generated an unintended reshuffling of alliances
and brought violently to the surface a world of crime that until then
was mostly subdued. The war between the Sinaloa and Juarez cartels,
two former allies, and between them and the Mexican authorities,
ripped the city apart.

The consequences go far beyond Juarez. More than 10,000 people have
been killed in Mexico, mostly in the north. I drove about 700
kilometers along the border all the way to Altar, deep in the Sonora
Desert, and became aware of the bloody pressure that La Familia is now
putting on the Beltran-Leyva cartel. The general opinion in Juarez is
that the government was unprepared for the consequences of its policy
and that the failure to anticipate the ripple effects on the balance
of power among the various regional mafias unintentionally turned what
could have been an emblem of a vibrant cross-cultural border city into
Baghdad without the U.S. Army.

"The city is dying," says the local representative of the National
Chamber of Commerce. Actually, one wishes Juarez could just die and
eventually be born again. Unlike people, cities can endure almost
anything for as long as necessary. Some call it resilience, but an
entire generation of Mexicans who have done nothing wrong would
appreciate a little less resilience and a little more life.