HUMBOLDT BREWING MAKING BEER WITH HEMP -- NATURALLY

THERE'S a new strong ale coming from Arcata's Humboldt Brewing Co.,
brewers of the popular Red Nectar Ale, that's a real zinger: Hemp Ale.

It's true. Hemp seeds are an ingredient in the beer, says Humboldt
president Mario Celotto, the former Oakland Raiders star who moved north to
Arcata and started Humboldt a decade ago.

The seeds are added in substantial quantity to the mash, the mixture of hot
water and ground barley that begins the beer-making process.

"Of course, you can't get high from these seeds," Celotto says. As anyone
who has sampled the illegal weed knows, THC, the potent narcotic chemical,
is found in quantity only in the leaves, buds and flowers of the female
hemp plant, not in the seeds.

Hemp and marijuana are different names for the same plant: cannabis
sativia. Human-kind for centuries has grown the male hemp plant for fiber
for rope and clothing. The female plant is useless for fiber, but good for
other uses, in-cluding these days - beer.

"The government requires us to use sterile seeds," Celotto explains. "But
they add a spicy flavor - it's like adding pepper to a dish. The hemp is
not going to change the body of the beer or the hop characteristics - but
it definitely makes a difference."

Humboldt Hemp Ale is scheduled to reach Bay Area taverns and other on-tap
accounts in two weeks. It should be available in bottles in liquor stores
and supermarkets in early February. But thanks to Celotto, we received an
advance sample.

Humboldt Hemp Ale is much more than a sales gimmick. The beer, formulated
by Celotto and brewed by Larry Lesterud is a big, 6.5-percent alcohol by
volume, unpasteurized, dark brown ale topped with a thick, creamy head.
Drink it cold from the refrigerator and it's a nice beer with a bit of
spice. But let it warm slightly to its proper drinking temperature around
45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and you're looking at a real winner.

The flavor is very rounded -a fine balance of dark crystal and chocolate
barley malts and hops. The hemp seeds add an interesting dimension,
slightly sweet and definitely spicy, but blending well with the Willamette
and Tetmanger hops, which are also spicy. The finish is appropriately
hoppy. Rating: 90.

It's no wonder the marijuana seeds and the hops blend so nicely. Unlike
more traditional modern spices like cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, both hops
and hemp are members of the same Cannabinacea plant family.

Humboldt Is the second commercial brewery to make a hemp beer. The first
was Frederick Brewing of Frederick, Md., which brought out Hempen Ale in
1996, then in-troduced Hempen Gold last year. Frederick has sold as much
hemp beer as it can make since day one.

Neither beer is available regularly in the Bay Area, although Beverages, &
more outlets sometimes have them. Hempen Ale is a malty, light brown ale
with a pleasing spicy note. It won the bronze medal in the herb/spice
category last October at the Great American Beer Festival. Hempen Gold, is
a brewpub standard golden beer, light to the taste with a sweet spiciness.
We rated Hempen Ale 88. Hempen Gold gets an 80. It's a well-made golden
with that interesting spicy note.

Brewer and Frederick Brewing co-founder Steve Nordahi, who is a University
of California at Davis graduate and former Danville resident, says the
brewery obtains hemp seeds from Eastern Europe and China. The seeds are
sterilized under government supervision.

Naturally, Celotto says Humboldt's seeds come from select Northern
California hemp fields. He admits with a trace of humor that considering
Humboldt County's reputation for raising cash crops of the illegal weed,
brewing a legal hemp beer was an almost irresistible temptation.

Celotto said Humboldt Hemp Is the start of a big push to make its beers
widely available in California. He has moved his wife and family back to
Oakland and Is making the East Bay the center of sales operations. The
company had announced a merger with another brewer who wanted to create a
national chain of craft brewers. Humboldt backed out to concentrate on its
natural market: California.