DRUG MASSACRE LEAVES A MEXICAN TOWN TERRORIZED

VILLA AHUMADA, Mexico -- A massacre here two weeks ago has turned this
once sleepy town into a ghostly emblem of the drug violence that has
swept Mexico over the last year and a half, gutting local police
forces, terrifying citizens and making it almost impossible for the
authorities to assert themselves.

On the night of May 17, dozens of men with assault rifles rolled into
town in several trucks and shot up the place. They killed the police
chief, two officers and three civilians. Then they carried off about
10 people, witnesses said. Only one has been found, dead and wrapped
in a carpet in Ciudad Juarez.

The entire municipal police force quit after the attack, and officials
fled the town for several days, leaving so hastily that they did not
release the petty criminals held in the town lockup. The state and
federal governments sent in 300 troops and 16 state police officers,
restoring an uneasy semblance of order. But townspeople remain terrified.

"Yeah, we're afraid, everyone's afraid," said Jose Antonio Contreras,
a 17-year-old who was threatened by the gunmen. "Nobody goes out at
night."

Tourists driving south from Texas to the Pacific Coast beaches pass
through Villa Ahumada on Highway 45. There was a time in the
not-so-distant past when this dusty town on the railroad tracks was
best known for its roadside burrito stands, its good cheese and its
having recorded one of the coldest temperatures in Mexico -- 23 below
zero in January 1962.

In recent years, however, it also became a way station along one of
Mexico's major drug smuggling routes. Villa Ahumada lies about 85
miles south of El Paso on the main highway from the city of Chihuahua
to the border city of Ciudad Juarez.

Mexico's drug violence has by now become so pervasive that it is
infecting even small communities like this one, which has fewer than
9,000 residents.

Around the country in the last 18 months, more than 4,000 people have
been killed in similar attacks and gun battles, even as President
Felipe Calderon has tried to take back towns where the local police
and officials were on the payroll of drug kingpins.

This week, seven federal officers died in a gun battle with cartel
henchmen when they tried to enter a house in Culiacan, Sinaloa, a city
notorious for its traffickers. The officers had been sent to the city,
along with 2,700 other soldiers and agents, to track down a reputed
drug kingpin believed to have ordered the assassination of the acting
federal chief of police, who was killed in Mexico City on May 8.

When the police arrived, banners were hung in the city taunting the
officers and saying the reputed kingpin, Arturo Beltran Leyva, reigned
supreme in Culiacan.

In Villa Ahumada less than two weeks after the massacre, people
remained so cowed that even the mayor and his police commissioner
declined requests to be interviewed. When asked who the gunmen were
and why they had come, most of the residents who were interviewed
shook their heads and whispered that spies were everywhere. In
private, however, some acknowledged that the town had long been home
to narcotics traffickers in league with a reputed drug dealer, Pedro
Sanchez Arras.

Frightened residents, who did not want to be identified, said Mr.
Sanchez's agent in the town was Gerardo Gallegos Rodelo, a 19-year-old
tough guy who went around with an armed posse. It was rumored that he
and Mr. Sanchez had links to a drug cartel in Ciudad Juarez that is
controlled by the Carrillo Fuentes family. Law enforcement officials
did not confirm the claim.

Several residents said Mr. Gallegos and Mr. Sanchez had also seemed to
enjoy good relations with the local police. People shrugged and
tolerated the arrangement. The town was peaceful, after all, some
said. It seemed best to leave well enough alone.

"Wherever you are in Mexico these days there are drug dealers, not
just here," explained Raul Moreno, 64, a day laborer. "They didn't
bother anyone. No one bothered them."

The trouble started, people here say, when Mr. Gallegos was killed in
a shootout with a group of reputed gangsters in Hidalgo del Parral, in
the southern part of Chihuahua State, on April 6.

Two days later, the army swooped in on his funeral in Villa Ahumada
and arrested dozens of people in attendance, taking into custody a
police commander, Adrian Barron, among others. It remains unclear what
those detained will be charged with, the attorney general's office
said.

On May 13, soldiers arrested Mr. Sanchez on drug trafficking charges
in Hidalgo del Parral.

The arrest seemed to set in motion the trouble in Villa Ahumada. Late
on the Saturday night four days after Mr. Sanchez's arrest, said Mr.
Contreras, the 17-year-old, he and several other boys were dancing at
a party for a friend in a hall just off the main square when they
heard the rat-tat-tat of machine-gun fire.

He hurriedly left the party with his girlfriend and mother, but they
ran into three cars full of heavily armed men, he said. Spewing death
threats, the men forced the three to lie on the ground. He waited for
the shots, but the cars roared off. One of the men called out, "We'll
be back."

For three hours, the gunmen roamed the town in six pickups and sport
utility cars. They strafed a used car lot with bullets. They pumped
more than 75 rounds into two men riding in a truck. One was Julio
Armando Gomez, the manager of a roast chicken place. The other was
Mario Alberto Gonzalez Castro, 41, who sold tickets at the bus station.

Mr. Gonzalez's wife, who asked to be identified only by her nickname,
Cuquis, said she had gone looking for her husband when she heard the
shooting and found his lifeless body oozing blood in the car. Her
hands trembled with fear when she was asked who might be behind the
killing; then she broke down, saying she had told the police what she
knew and could not say anything else. "He was innocent, innocent above
all else," she said through her sobs.

The gunmen caught up to the police chief, Jose Armando Estrada
Rodriguez, and two officers, Oscar Zuniga Davila and Jose Luis
Quinones Juarez, who were sitting in their patrol car at a gas
station. The attackers killed the three men with 26 shots from an
assault rifle, officials said.

Also killed was Luis Eduardo Escobedo Ruiz, 21, who happened to be
pulling into a parking lot near the gas station. More than 100 shells
were found outside his car.

Privately, some residents speculated that the attackers came from a
rival drug cartel intent on dislodging the Carrillo Fuentes family
from Ciudad Juarez and the cities along the route down through
Chihuahua State to Sinaloa State. Some whisper it was Joaquin Guzman,
an accused drug kingpin known as "El Chapo," who sent the commandos.
Others mention the Zetas, feared hired killers in the employ of the
Gulf Cartel.

"They are getting rid of all the people connected to Pedro Sanchez,"
said one young man, requesting anonymity for fear of the cartels. "All
the police worked for Pedro."

The state authorities say they still have little information about
what happened, much less whom the gunmen worked for. The fearful
silence of residents makes it hard for investigators to make progress,
Eduardo Esparza, a spokesman for the state attorney general, said.

"At this moment, we have no lines of investigation," he said. "It's
hard to get information. The families of the victims refuse to talk,
mainly out of terror. One can't advance at a good pace. There are lots
of barriers."

One measure of those barriers is that the state police have been
informed of only two kidnappings on the night the raiders came to
town, but several residents insisted that at least 10 people were missing.

The townspeople say they feel a pall hanging over them. The roadside
restaurants and vendors of cheese say fewer people stop in the town,
apparently out of fear. Soldiers in Humvees with mounted machine guns
patrol the streets.

Some residents said they were stunned that the entire police force of
more than 20 officers had stepped down. Many say the town will never
be able to afford the cost of a more professional force that could
stop future attacks.

"One feels very disillusioned with the government," said the owner of
a popular restaurant, who has spent her life in the town. "There is no
one who seems to be able to do anything."