OBSERVERS CROWD U.S. EMBASSY IN BOGOTA

BOGOTA - The US Congress is back in session this week in Washington,
and no one could be more relieved than the staff at the US Embassy in
Colombia.

Congressional recesses, like the one last week, have become prime time
for visits from US senators and representatives to this conflict-torn
country, which is home to a 40-year civil war and the world's largest
cocaine-making industry - and a government that, despite its best
intentions, seems unable to eliminate either.

It's as if the country, with its internal strife, jungles,
helicopters, and, more recently, millions in US-taxpayer money, has
become the Beltway's version of "Survivor," a distant tropical setting
where wing-tipped pols can rough it and brag about it.

Last week, during the brief Presidents' Day recess, the US Embassy in
Bogota hosted six congressional delegations.

The number of official visitors here has risen sharply since Congress
approved a $1.3 billion drug-fighting package last year. Most of the
aid is buying US-made choppers and US training for antidrug
battalions, but it's also paying for US help in getting farmers to
grow something other than coca, poppy, or marijuana.

"The Republicans usually like riding in helicopters with the military
guys, and the Democrats talk about human rights and crop
substitution," one embassy official said last week with a tired grin.
"Some of them come for only a day or two. But now they can say they've
been here."

The embassy is responsible for coordinating nearly all aspects of a
delegation's visit, including security - no easy feat in Colombia.
That means providing bulletproof vans with tinted windows and a police
escort, scheduling flights, and coordinating meetings with everyone
from rural farmers to three-star generals. Did someone say "travel
agency"?

"Actually, it's good to have people who want to learn more about
Colombia and its complexities," said US Ambassador Anne Patterson.
"Sure, it can be tough and tiring, but it's worth it."

Occasionally, there are visitors who test the embassy's travel and
security network by scheduling meetings where employees rarely go themselves.

A six-day delegation led by Representatives James McGovern of
Massachusetts and Janice Schakowsky of Illinois and coordinated by the
Washington Office on Latin America, a human rights group, took
Patterson and the 18-member group under heavy security into the heart
of the coca-growing region of Putumayo.

The next day, the delegation traveled to the northern region of Uraba
to visit a self-proclaimed "peace community," where residents have
kicked out anyone with a gun - including their own police and military
- - because they're tired of getting caught in crossfire.

Embassy officials didn't accompany the delegation into the village
because of security concerns. Things went smoothly, though, and
afterward the group squeezed into two buses for the back-shaking ride
down the mountain road to rendezvous with their embassy guides.

The rest of the delegation's week was spent in typical delegation-like
activities: meetings with top Colombian government officials, who have
also become accustomed to the constant parade of US politicians. There
were dinners with political analysts, diplomats, and human rights
officials, and, of course, a briefing at the US Embassy.

"It's too bad more of my colleagues don't come here to see for
themselves what our money and policies are doing to these people,"
said McGovern, a critic of Plan Colombia's heavy military emphasis.

With more debate expected this spring over the plan's progress -
especially on human rights issues - it's likely the embassy staff will
be swamped with even more congressional delegations.

"This week was nothing to what I bet we get this spring," said another
embassy employee. "Easter recess is coming and that's a longer break.
This week was just practice."